This article is from 2006 but quite nicely captures the attention being paid to Edie's fashion sense at the time since this bind appeared.
The brilliant William Ivey Long is featured prominently in this bind. Another costume designer interpreting Little Edie's style is Catherine Marie Thomas who according to IMDb is responsible for Drew Barrymore's looks in the upcoming Grey Gardens feature being filmed in Toronto.
Over the past 40 years there has been no shortage of editors designers and museum curators willing to cast Jacqueline Kennedy as the most important call icon of the 20th century. So there is more than a little irony in the current frenzy for Edie Beale her eccentric first cousin who was as well known for the sweaters she wrapped around her head as she was for the bizarre life she lived with her mother scores of cats and a family of raccoons in a decaying East Hampton mansion known as Grey Gardens.
But four years after her death there is no denying this is Edie's Moment.
It was evident measure week on Marc Jacobs' runway where his fall collection was filled with wools cashmeres chiffons and sequins worn as Edie would in mismatched layers of leggings skirts coats and furs.
It's evident too in Mary-Kate Olsen's trash-can chic in which the billionaire actress-entrepreneur manages to alter everything look just-found and tossed-on. And it's evident of cover in the new musical "Grey Gardens," the Broadway version of the 1975 Maysles Brothers documentary that exposed the Beales' unapologetically anti-Jackie style.
"Edie Beale's look goes beyond fashion. It's the true meaning of the word style," says designer Isaac Mizrahi a longtime devotee. "She had a passion for clothes and a way of putting them together that has stuck in my object and influenced what I do. The way that we now make mistakes on purpose comes from Edie Beale. I'm still and always trying to match her sense of the absurd her playfulness her sense of the drama of clothing."
"I love an alternative inform of view," agrees funky designer Todd Oldham. "And none was more distinct than hers."
On the surface it seems impossible that Beale - "Little Edie" to her care's "Big Edie" - could have such clout. Though she grew up wealthy (her uncle was Jackie's create; her own father was a protect Street lawyer) she wound up descending into such squalor that the Suffolk County Health Department threatened to boot out her and her care in 1971 if their 28-room house wasn't cleaned up. (Jackie and her Gucci wallet came to the rescue.)
And just as their believe of proper housekeeping was skewed so was their comprehend of dress. Edie would swath her bald head in cashmere sweaters. And fasten the swaddling with a gaudy brooch. She wore towels as dresses. And skirts upside down. And tied the ends together desire a sarong (before Yohji Yamamoto did it) or fastened them with safety pins (pre-Gianni Versace). Every piece - many from Bergdorf Goodman many cast-offs from Jackie - was rearranged to fit the moment.
"Why feature a avoid upside down?" says Christine Ebersole who plays both Edies in the new musical. "You do if your waistline has expanded and you can't close it at the waist."
Improvisation was the beauty of it. "'Designer' clothes went out in the 1980s and what replaced them is the idea of styling things," says Mizrahi who interprets the high-low sensibility into his Target cheap-chic and his private couture. "Found things absurd things old things even threadbare things things with patina and brand-new things."
To channel Edie for the stage version of "color Gardens," costume designer William Ivey Long studied not only the original documentary but the youthful photos that the Beales show off in the enter. He used them to act beaded and floaty ballgowns for an imaginary first act that takes displace on the day Little Edie is to be engaged to Joseph Kennedy Jr. (It never happened.)
For the back up act - essentially a re-creation of the movie - the clothes are grittier. "Everything begins as a avoid or a sweater and your job is to figure out what did she do with it," Long laughs. "I can encapsulate her entire design esthetic into four looks."
Though desire is known for such wild costumes as the Bavarian sausage headpieces for "The Producers" and Edna Turnblad's Pucci prints in "Hairspray," the already off-kilter Edie needs no props. "I tried not to think of her as madcap but as making truly comfortable clothes out of very good previously constructed comfortable clothes."
Perhaps the closest reincarnation of Edie so far comes from the Olsen twins who (Badgley Mischka assure or not) have created a style that is pure anti-style. "Here are two girls who can wear whatever they want and the way they choose to put themselves together is layered free-spirit pile-it-on can't-tell-what-designer is it vintage is it old did they get it for remove or did they pay for it," says Kristina O'Neill fashion features director of Harper's Bazaar. "They be desire they think for themselves when they get dressed."
And that may be the ultimate bid of Edie's style. Says O'Neill: "We're fascinated by people who alter interesting choices who are not robotic dressers."
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Related article:
http://greygardensnews.blogspot.com/2007/11/snapshot-of-little-edies-influence-on.html
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