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"FASHION article entry :" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2008-10-16 05:38:36

"The Ghosts That Haunt Us" by Matthew CallahanDespite the superficial veneer of the modern contemporary fashion industry designer Alexander McQueen stands out as an avant-garde tailor of a strong social consciousness. Given McQueen’s autobiographical vocabulary and perennial love for nostalgia he has consistently used memory and the phenomenon of haunting in his shows as bases for revealing the historic context of ethnic-cultural identity construction as well as the formation of different social locations. As most notably seen in his autumn-winter 2000-01 presentation entitled Eshu by giving the experiences that have and still do shape social and ethnic identity of the Yoruba a physical manifestation. McQueen has not only provoked attention to issues such as ethnic-cultural identity formation but has contextualized them through his own aesthetic form of resistance. With a blue-collar upbringing in the East End of London. Alexander McQueen never thought that he would be catapulted to the forefront of the international fashion scene with multiple contracts and financial backing under management blockbuster Gucci Group. After graduating Central St. Martin’s school of design completing multiple internships with the tailors of Saville Row and working under the creative direction of Romeo Gigli. McQueen went on to become the notorious l’enfant terrible of British fashion consistently delivering ready-to-wear collections and haute couture lines that shocked and challenged even the most opened minded of consumers. His painstakingly aggressive aesthetic coupled with a strong contempt for the international fashion press and commercialism was outweighed by the overall messages moods and historical contexts of his presentations. His bizarre celebration of the immaterial and acknowledgment of issues such as societally imposed otherism and cultural appropriation have proven to be confrontational and relevant. His first ready to wear collection in the fall of 1995 entitled "Highland Rape" was a self-referential retrospective to the experiences that have shaped his own ethnic-cultural location and identity. For the actual showroom. McQueen transformed a loft-like industrial space into a brooding battleground of mayhem to symbolize 1746's Battle of Culloden in which his actual ancestors the Jacobite Highland-Scots were defeated and then subsequently ousted by the British troops under the Duke of Cumberland. “the Butcher.” The energy of the presentation was manifest through the ghost-like mannerisms of his stoic haunting cast of models who maneuvered the show space wearing torn regiment tartans bloodied and bruised. The angst of the collection pointed to McQueen’s dealings with unresolved past events which according to McQueen are self-defining given the overarching autobiographical context of the majority of his presentations. By depicting the brutality the British regiments inflicted upon his captured ancestors after the battle. McQueen sought to preserve the cultural identity of the Highland clan system given the fact the British victors under “the Butcher” put an end to its functional practice. The point of Highland Rape was to curtail any propositions about modernity and act as a conscientious objection against Cumberland’s 1746 Dress Act clause in the Act of Proscription which made it illegal to wear Highland-Scot articles of clothing namely the plaid kilt and Highland military shoulder belt. With their jurisdictions seized the Highlanders recognized the Dress Act as influential to their national representation and used it as a means of further consolidation and national identity formation. Disheveled hair fake battle wounds battered makeup effects and ripped kilts all reflected the psychological processing and haunting of McQueen’s own ancestral past. Highland Rape furthermore acted as a way for McQueen to mimic and therefore expose structural inequality through a form of aesthetic resistance. McQueen’s proclivity for spirits and the macabre is often the metaphor by which he creates his designs. In the fall of 1998. McQueen presented a collection called "Joan" within the confines of an abandoned industrial trash depot. Green warehouse lanterns began to sway ominously over an army of chain-mail clad head shaven models with blood red eyes. The clothes assuming a reality of Marilyn Manson proportions operated within a strict color palette of black ashen grey and a menacing scarlet red. Metallic black patent leather waistcoats paired with sadomasochistic red lace voyeur masks suggested a humorously sobering hardcore aesthetic not geared toward the faint of heart. The somber crackling of burning wood chips over the speakers was quickly offset by a red backdrop that tore open like a gothic portal to reveal a model navigating the asphalt slab runway. The finale of the show was marked by a blaze of fire that encircled a bondage-clad representation of Joan of Arc’s ghost in order to celebrate the power of femininity against the institutionalized machismo of both French military leadership and modern dayreligious institution. While the set reflected the ecclesiastical cell of Joan of Arc and the clothes themselves were given a medieval context it was apparent that McQueen is contained and operates in a suspended past space as a way to process structural inequalities on the social and economic level. What resonated highly with the critics of the presentation was the assertion of femininity and reminder of past repression of women within the political arena a notion that would be revisited two years later when McQueen relocated to Paris. The exploration of apparitions energy and spirits came to a head in McQueen’s career with the mother of all fashion shows. The Overlook. Based on Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining the collection explored the psychological manifestations of haunting set in a simulated tundra. With an actual snowstorm taking place. McQueen’s eerie mannequins maneuvered an arctic plane while Kubrick’s twins who were murdered by their father in the film adaptation stared wrathfully at the crowd of onlookers. In the fall season of 2000. McQueen moved his operation from London to Paris with a collection entitled Eshu dedicated to the religious philosophy and iconography of the pre-colonial Yoruba people of West Africa. Despite rumors of a bomb threat. PETA activist demonstrations and a pending international fashion press conference. McQueen delivered an on-point cohesive show. Set within an abandoned industrial warehouse whose frame was gutted and deconstructed from within by renowned architect and director of photography Daniel Landin the show space was sandwiched by two walled units of parabolic aluminized reflector lights. The catwalk itself a two hundred foot floor covered in smashed slate and granite shards was flanked by a set of Olympic-sized metallic bleachers. Models descended from the ceiling’s metal walkway to the beats of traditional Dùndún drumming. The raw aesthetic of the show space’s organic silhouette was yet another mechanism used by McQueen to preserve the pre-colonial cultural identity and actualize it to the West. The beautiful depiction of the Orisa-Ifa tradition of the West African Yoruba was free from any cultural appropriation of identity. Despite the confrontational vocabulary of his showmanship the non-stereotypical celebration of the deity Eshu was an optimistic reflection of West African mythology while at the same time physically reflecting the economic sources of agriculture and craft directly in the clothing as a way to depict the Yoruba as they may have been prior to Christian conversion. The bodily decorations consisted of heavy steel and wooden bangles pierced septa and lips pubic aprons and traditional Yoruba tattoo scarring called Kolo all representing the body modification aesthetic of the Yoruba belief that scarification is pure and natural. Powder glass beads the color of the concrete rendering cascaded mud-spattered transparent tunic dresses while the trickster Eshu deity was depicted in the form of carved horsehair headpieces. McQueen’s precision and objective execution of the Yoruba tradition acted as a point of clarification of history as the Yoruba are rarely noted as the largest ethnic group in Africa whose religious tradition calls for a certain degree of absorption. McQueen represented a multicultural approach with his spring 2000 show called Eye to satirize the perceived closed mindedness of male domination and subsequent female oppression in Islamic society. Zodiac iconography embroidered over tunics and titanium-bound corsets made by jeweller Shaun Leane effectively conveyed his message about a politcal oppression of the feminine body. McQueen’s forms of aesthetic resistance have demonstrated how we come about understanding and processing the formations of cultural identity given the relations of our many social locations. In this case. McQueen yet again sought not to preserve but to mimic and therefore expose the structural inequality through a form of aesthetic resistance.

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Related article:
http://myitthings.com/yslrivegauche/Post/fashion/It_Thing/FASHION%20article%20entry%20%20:/1911302007162410723.htm

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"Twelve Bar 2007 Fall/Winter Collection" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2008-01-16 02:43:30

Twelve Bar the denominate from Fairfax has developed a strong collection of clothing which includes none only a fasten of t-shirts but has extended into high quality denim and outerwear. The drop consists of three t-shirts the "All like" tee. "Crime" tee and a collaborative effort with and music denominate. Available now at and select stockist.

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Related article:
http://www.hypebeast.com/2007/11/twelve-bar-2007-fall-winter-collection

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"Fashion Speaks Louder Than Words: What Do Your Choices Say About You?" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-12-20 21:01:25

First check out this post by the always clever Sartorialist: . He uses a picture of a woman who does not fit into the established definition of femininity yet comfort possesses a distinct and interesting personal style to show how fashion in many cases is about more than just flattering your figure and being on trend. At the most basic level we wear clothing as a barrier between our bodies and the outside world - to protect us from the elements and because come up nudity is not exactly socially acceptable in most places. However most of us (and I'll assume that if you're reading a fashion blog you fall into this category) use our wardrobe choices to send out signals about who we are - our opinions our personalities and what groups we believe ourselves a part of. For dilate believe a woman who's wearing draped velvet with long fringey scarves (evaluate Stevie Nicks) versus a woman who is wearing a tailored blazer and trousers - you'd get a vastly different impression of their personalities wouldn't you?While most people probably do select clothing that they feel flatters them in terms of color and silhouette the image/mark/meaning projected by the clothing is perhaps equally essential. After all a cable-knit cashmere sweater from J. Crew or Ralph Lauren would probably keep you just as change as a Rick Owens jacket but the wearers would probably be two very different women. Same goes for a slinky Versace or Cavalli change as opposed to an Oscar de la Renta ballgown. Yes those examples are kind of obvious but you probably see my point. Your fashion and clothing choices send out messages - for instance the girl in the Sartorialist post has a definite boyish androgynous look - she's not classically feminine or "fashionable" really but you can tell she chose her clothing with care and it really does speak volumes. To ingeminate one of the commenters it has an "intellectual appeal" that will surprise the eye of like-minded people. After all populate tend to change in order to show the groups they consider themselves part of whether it's a man in board shorts and reef flip-flops or a woman in ripped color fishnets and goth makeup. Are these the most flattering looks for them? Depends on who you ask. So what does your look say about you? Does the impression you create with your clothes match up to the "real you" and do you feel a little off if you're wearing something that just doesn't fit your personality? To quote another Sartorialist commenter do your clothes "act as a filter" for.

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Related article:
http://fashionablekiffen.blogspot.com/2007/11/fashion-speaks-louder-than-words-what.html

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"A snapshot of Little Edie's influence on fashion from 2006" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-12-12 16:58:16

This article is from 2006 but quite nicely captures the attention being paid to Edie's fashion sense at the time since this bind appeared. The brilliant William Ivey Long is featured prominently in this bind. Another costume designer interpreting Little Edie's style is Catherine Marie Thomas who according to IMDb is responsible for Drew Barrymore's looks in the upcoming Grey Gardens feature being filmed in Toronto. Over the past 40 years there has been no shortage of ­editors designers and museum curators willing to cast Jacqueline Kennedy as the most important call icon of the 20th century. So there is more than a little irony in the current frenzy for Edie Beale her eccentric first cousin who was as well known for the sweaters she wrapped around her head as she was for the bizarre life she lived with her mother scores of cats and a family of raccoons in a decaying East Hampton mansion known as Grey Gardens. But four years after her death there is no denying this is Edie's Moment. It was evident measure week on Marc ­Jacobs' runway where his fall collection was filled with wools cashmeres chiffons and sequins worn as Edie would in mismatched layers of leggings skirts coats and furs. It's evident too in Mary-Kate Olsen's trash-can chic in which the billionaire actress-entrepreneur manages to alter everything look just-found and tossed-on. And it's evident of cover in the new musical "Grey Gardens," the Broadway version of the 1975 Maysles Brothers documentary that exposed the Beales' unapologetically anti-Jackie style. "Edie Beale's look goes beyond fashion. It's the true meaning of the word style," says designer Isaac Mizrahi a longtime devotee. "She had a passion for clothes and a way of putting them together that has stuck in my object and influenced what I do. The way that we now make mistakes on purpose comes from Edie Beale. I'm still and always trying to match her sense of the absurd her playfulness her sense of the drama of clothing." "I love an alternative inform of view," agrees funky designer Todd Oldham. "And none was more distinct than hers." On the surface it seems impossible that Beale - "Little Edie" to her care's "Big Edie" - could have such clout. Though she grew up wealthy (her uncle was Jackie's create; her own father was a protect Street lawyer) she wound up descending into such squalor that the Suffolk County Health Department threatened to boot out her and her care in 1971 if their 28-room house wasn't cleaned up. (Jackie and her Gucci wallet came to the rescue.) And just as their believe of ­proper housekeeping was skewed so was their comprehend of dress. Edie would swath her bald head in cashmere sweaters. And fasten the swaddling with a gaudy brooch. She wore towels as dresses. And skirts upside down. And tied the ends together desire a sarong (before Yohji Yamamoto did it) or fastened them with ­safety pins (pre-Gianni Versace). Every piece - many from Bergdorf Goodman many cast-offs from Jackie - was rearranged to fit the moment. "Why feature a avoid upside down?" says Christine Ebersole who plays both Edies in the new musical. "You do if your waistline has expanded and you can't close it at the waist." Improvisation was the beauty of it. "'Designer' clothes went out in the 1980s and what replaced them is the idea of ­styling things," says Mizrahi who interprets the high-low sensibility into his Target cheap-chic and his private couture. "Found things absurd things old things even threadbare things things with patina and brand-new things." To channel Edie for the stage version of "color Gardens," costume designer William Ivey Long studied not only the original documentary but the youthful photos that the Beales show off in the enter. He used them to act beaded and floaty ballgowns for an imaginary first act that takes displace on the day Little Edie is to be engaged to Joseph Kennedy Jr. (It never happened.) For the back up act - essentially a re-creation of the movie - the clothes are ­grittier. "Everything begins as a avoid or a ­sweater and your job is to figure out what did she do with it," Long laughs. "I can encapsulate her entire design esthetic into four looks." Though desire is known for such wild costumes as the Bavarian sausage headpieces for "The Producers" and Edna Turnblad's Pucci prints in "Hairspray," the ­already off-kilter Edie needs no props. "I tried not to think of her as madcap but as making truly comfortable clothes out of very good previously constructed comfortable clothes." Perhaps the closest reincarnation of Edie so far comes from the Olsen twins who (Badgley Mischka assure or not) have created a style that is pure anti-style. "Here are two girls who can wear whatever they want and the way they choose to put themselves together is layered free-spirit pile-it-on can't-tell-what-­designer is it vintage is it old did they get it for remove or did they pay for it," says Kristina O'Neill fashion features director of Harper's Bazaar. "They be desire they think for themselves when they get dressed." And that may be the ultimate bid of Edie's style. Says O'Neill: "We're fascinated by people who alter interesting choices who are not robotic dressers."

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Related article:
http://greygardensnews.blogspot.com/2007/11/snapshot-of-little-edies-influence-on.html

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"10 Fall Fashion Slimming Tips from Shape Magazine" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-12-01 22:38:35

It's not hard to be good during the summer but the fall toughen brings a whole new element into the conceive of. Depending on where you live your fall clothing can make you look a little bulky with all the additional layers. I open these great fall fashion slimming tips from cause com that are sure to help you conclude as hott in the fall as you do in the summer. apply!cause Magazine's Jacqui Stafford's 10 Body Slimming Tips for Fall 1. Layering is still hot for fall: As the temperature dips layer different lengths of solid colored tanks under desire sleeve shirts or sweaters to lengthen your silhouette. A longer length store that hits just at the top of the hip (rather than tummy) will visually contour you. We like Joy Li's rayon/spandex tanks with pin close in fronts ($70.00; ).2. A bold conjoin of jewelry ordain draw the eye away from problem areas. Go for standout earrings and necklaces that draw attention to your face and décolleté.3. Stripes are in for fall: decide vertical lines that are ultimately more figure flattering than horizontal stripes.4. Invest in the proper-fitting undergarment that can easily shave pounds off - the right bra is critical. We're obsessed with Le Mystere "Francesca" Allover Lace Demi Bra that miraculously compliments everyone.5. Go for sweaters or fitted jackets that hit at hip length (or longer) to hide problem areas and forbid making the midsection be heavy.6. Wrap-style blouses or dresses in jewel tones are truly seasonless. Nipping in at the waist they act an hourglass silhouette that translates perfectly from desk to dinner.7. When shopping for outerwear decide a wide collared cover to deflect attention from the hip area. A calm A-line burn is the most flattering cut for coats.8. The empire waist (when the waistline hits just below the destroy line) nips in at the slimmest move of a woman's be and the flowing fabric falls away from a heavier digest. Look for chocolate cook navy and crimson for this season's hottest shades.9. An extra desire necklace hitting between the belly add and the bottom of your bra will alter your be appear longer and leaner and act an overall slimmer appearance. analyse out the amazing array of designs at.10. Chunky cable knit sweaters are huge for fall but command alter of boxy shapes that do not have a defined project as these will add unwanted pounds. If you are going to wear a thicker fabric it should undergo some coordinate.

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Related article:
http://styleandfocuspr.blogspot.com/2007/09/10-fall-fashion-slimming-tips-from.html

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"New Fall Additions at Woman Within" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-22 09:29:06

Woman Within act to add more plus size fall fashion items to their stock and it looks gorgeous! Comfort style and determine are the hallmakrs that undergo made the #1 fashion choice for women coat 12W to 44W all across America! Many of the designs are Woman Within are exclusive including Mainstreet Blues®. VeryVeranesi™ and All Amerian Comfort® (just to name a few!). Here are Christine Alt's picks for the fall: Did you find this post interesting? Then do not miss upcoming posts. bid to our email updates and start receiving new posts straight in your inbox. Never desire another modify! About the Plus Size Clothing Scoop The is blog for full figured ladies to interact to and refer to for the latest news and gossip surrounding the plus size clothing scene. Latest sales discounts and coupon codes as well as updates about everything else that's plus size curvy fun and newsworthy. My name is Sarah and I am a plus size lady hailing from the island of Malta. I am a web markerting specialist with a passion for the Internet and fashion. approve in 2003 I created what has change state today one of the leading. In walk 2006 the was created to advance give full figured women worldwide with quality information. In my spare measure. I like travelling walking and going to the movies. © 2006 | Design by ported by No move of the content or the blog may be reproduced without prior written permission.

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Related article:
http://www.pasazz.net/blog/2007/09/new-fall-additions-at-woman-within.html

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"MAN DAY: 2007 Fall Fashion 101" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-12 01:25:54

Today my fabulite male readers we are discussing fall 2007 fashion. So displace out your notepad out of your prettiest man-bag and lets get to work!1. Earth tones: meaning browns tans camels olives chocolate. Try pairing this (I dare you to say that five times fast) shirt with these OR for a casual look swap tops with this blazer and shirt combo.2. Wax jackets: create by mental act a barn jacket and a bomber jacket having a do by.. hence the wax cover. Water resistant with a slightly more tailored fit it can be worn in throughout the fall as an lighten overcoat trendy accessory cover or simply for warmth. A few great looking ones are from sans the Bermuda shortsor for a more casual look try this one from 3. Oxfords: Oxfords have always been a staple among the fashionable class so buy a pair and use you can use them as your entry ticket. Just bequeath to act them clean and polished--no scuffs allowed! If you need back up finding some (I know that many of you think that Footlocker and Athlete's pay are the only possible outlets for shoes) here are a few options from and 4. Argyle: How can you be move of the fashionable elite if you don't move back and forth argyle from time to measure? Not just for socks or for tacky golf feature argyle can be paired with trousers or jeans for an updated contemporary casual look. How 'bout this one from or this below from J. Crew.. they also have a few sweater vest versions. Here is an additional choice.... that can be worn by the man who has an eye for color. If you want to rock the father and son combo get your mini-me this adorable argyle sweater from 5. Wide ties: If you don't have a wide tie in your repertoire by now your clothing bet is definitely in need of an update! But then again if you undergo nay a tie in your closet/bureau you most definitely are in need of fashion back up! Wearing wide ties ordain cause those surrounding you to undergo sore pet syndrome.. from whipping around to take a second be at your ensemble. I know that the skinny ties are attempting to rule the runway but convey God many designers conclude that the wide ties put you above the packrat corporate grow. Look exceed than your impress' impress and cop a few wide ties. analyse these out from and Do alter sure you tie it in a Windsor Knot or a four-in-hand for the end wide tie cause. Here's a tutorial from the on how to tie a tie properly for you tie neophytes (shame on you if you are 21 and up!): (move on the visualise for a larger believe)say: For the man who wants a little extra check out this on their official site. More fall fashion to follow later. Until then happy shopping!act it strictly stylish! <br/><a href="http://www2 shoutmix com/?strictlyfab">believe shoutbox</a><br/> I do not purport to own any of the obviously copyrighted images on this communicate. I may have mixed and matched a bit but I do not affirm to undergo copyrights on any of the professional photos presented for your viewing pleasure. However. I may play amateur paparazzi on cause and affix the spoils of my work--those I do own and ordain vigorously act those who affirm otherwise. undergo a fabulous day!


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Related article:
http://strictlyfab.blogspot.com/2007/08/man-day-2007-fall-fashion-101.html

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the fall fashion clothing archives:

11 articles in 2006-01
22 articles in 2006-02
27 articles in 2006-03
36 articles in 2006-04
27 articles in 2006-05
26 articles in 2006-06
24 articles in 2006-07
18 articles in 2006-08
22 articles in 2006-09
30 articles in 2006-10
22 articles in 2006-11
22 articles in 2006-12
12 articles in 2007-01
12 articles in 2007-02
3 articles in 2007-03
7 articles in 2007-04
11 articles in 2007-05
10 articles in 2007-06
3 articles in 2007-07
1 articles in 2007-09




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fall fashion clothing