The Ancient Hawaiian Tradition of Surfing Surfing permeated every aspect of Hawaiian society including social coordinate myth and religion. Native Hawaiians surfed on long hardwood boards lying drink sitting or standing. Hawaiians left older more picturesque evidence of their sport in the form of petroglyphs of surfers carved into the lava rock and chants that tell the stories of great surfing feats some dating to 1500. As an integral move of traditional Hawaiian grow surfing was included in the label of kapu (taboos) that regulated all social interaction in prehistoric Hawaii. The Kapu system maintained a society that was stratified into royal and common classes. These taboos extended into the glide zone specifying beaches and reefs where the alii (chiefs) surfed and those where the maka ai nana (commoners) were allowed.
The Death of Surfing After the arrival of Christian missionaries in the 1820s who imposed a bring home the bacon and puritanical ethic surfing along with hula and other compete activities faded from Hawaiian culture. With the back up of converted Hawaiian Queen Kaahumanu (Kamehameha the Greats favorite wife) the ancient kapu system was overturned and the beaches and waves were freed to all but there was no one left to surf them for over 150 years.
The Rebirth of Surfing At the move of the 20th century surfing underwent a renaissance thanks to 3 men none of who was Hawaiian. Surfer George Freeth began amazing visitors with his surfing stunts on the waves of Oahus Waikiki land. About the same measure the writings of author Jack London exposed the sport to an international audience. Alexander Hume Ford helped establish the Outrigger boat unify on Waikiki the first modern club dedicated to the perpetuation of wave riding. Freeth was also brought surfing to California when he surfed in an exhibition at Redondo Beach in 1907. Duke Paoa Kahanamoku a Waikiki beach boy and Olympic swimming champion was already famous as a surfer and world-record holder in the 100-meter freestyle when he helped found the Hui Nalu Club in Waikiki. Duke took the sport of surfing to Australia when he was invited to surf in Sydney in 1912.
By the 1960s especially in the U. S - new materials new technologies and new board design created a renewed swell of interest in the ancient Hawaiian feature and surfing began to act into popular culture in the U. S establishing its own genre of music culminating in The land Boys and various popular movies including Gidget and Endless Summer. It has change state a multi-billion dollar worldwide industry that includes equipment accessories surf wear surfing books magazines films music and adventure vacations.
Oahus Big Wave Competition The Quiksilver. Big Wave Invitational In Memory of Eddie Aikau takes place each winter at Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. Created in 1985 to honor legendary Hawaiian waterman Eddie Aikau this event gathers 24 of the most accomplished paddle-in big wave riders from around the world. "The Eddie," as it is also known spans up to 3 months - waiting for ideal. 30-foot plus waves. The competition itself occurs on a hit day when conditions are just perfect.
Edward Ryan Aikau was a Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard whose strength knowledge skill and courage have become legendary. In 1978. Eddie was lost at sea when he set off alone on his surfboard to back up deliver fellow crew members aboard the foundering displace Hokulea on her maiden solo voyage to Tahiti. Since then. "Eddie Would Go," has become a common saying throughout the Hawaiian Islands...
Oahu is comfort King of Surfing With year-round water temperatures from 70 to 80 degrees F more than 1700 mapped surf sites and some of the worlds best waves - from gentle Waikiki rollers to the massive 40-foot be crushers of Mauis Jaws and Oahus Northshore Hawaii and most especially Oahu remains one of the beat places on earth to surf year round.
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http://shoebrush9382.blogspot.com/2007/11/oahu-hawaii-birthplace-of-surfing-still.html
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